Phew! It has been a crazy week. Last Wednesday we left for Venice. The group and I spent Saturday hiking in the Cinque Terre, I headed out Sunday to tour the countryside in a vintage Fiat, and yesterday we all visited Pisa and San Gimignano. Not to mention I went out to the infamous Luisa Via Roma party in Florence last night. Needless to say, I am spent!
But, as I always say, it is totally worth it. I would not have wanted to miss out of any of these fabulous experiences. I am a bit behind sharing them on the blog, but I promise I will get through all of them eventually.
These pictures are from a week ago when the group spent the day in two fabulous Tuscan hill towns - Pienza and Montepulciano. Pienza is famous for its pecorino cheese and Montepulciano for its red wine, which makes for a great day of eating and drinking. We picnicked in Pienza and then explored the charming town before heading out to Montepulciano.
Pienza is the ideal Renaissance city. After his election, Pope Pius II decided to build his perfect city based on the principles of the Renaissance. It is considered one of the first forays into urban planning. The city was artfully laid out and meticulously designed. It became the summer residence of the Pope and his most important cardinals. Today the city is perfectly preserved thanks to its status as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Pienza also overlooks the stunning Val d'Orcia, which in my opinion is the most beautiful part of Tuscany.
Unlike Pienza, Montepulciano was never redesigned or built by a pope, so it retains it Medieval look and feel. I would say there is less to do in Montepulciano than in Pienza, but it is definitely worth a stop for some amazing wine (the Catina Contucci is worth a visit) and a fabulous meal.
For our fun day in the Tuscan countryside, I wore my favorite gingham shorts and bell-sleeve top from Club Monaco. It was our first truly warm day since arriving in Italy, which is so rare for June. I am not complaining, but it was nice to finally feel the sun!
Siena is such an incredible city. Not only is it surrounded by some of Tuscany's most beautiful countryside, it retains its medieval look and feel. Visiting Siena is like stepping back in time. The city is well worth a day trip and easily reach via bus from Florence. So I have rounded up my 10 must-do things in Siena.
1) Marvel at the marble-striped duomo. I think Siena wins for my favorite cathedral in Italy (Milan is a close second). It's facade is a gorgeous array of pink, green, and black marble. Siena actually built their impressive cathedral before Florence's giant dome, but not to be outdone by their rival Florence, Siena immediately started a massive expansion. This new expansion would have dwarfed the churches of Tuscany, but sadly, the Black Death arrive shortly after construction began. Only one wall of the new nave was erected, which brings me to number two...
2) Climb the unfinished wall of the church for the perfect panoramic of Siena. Although unfinished, today Siena's unrealized cathedral houses the duomo museum. But the best part of this awkward wall is that you can climb it. From the top you can see the perfect view of Siena's famous Campo (main town square, pictured above).
3) See the Piccolomini Library. Inside Siena's massive cathedral, in a small room on the lefthand side of the nave, is the Piccolomini Library. In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful cycle of Renaissance-style frescos in the world. The library was built by Siena's most powerful family, the Piccolomini (the family produced two popes). The library was intended to hold the manuscript collection of Pope Pius III (then just the "nephew" of Pope Pius II). The gorgeous and colorful fresco cycle was painted by Pinturrichio and his assistants, which included a young Raphael.
4) Visit the city's archive. I know I am very partial to archives, but I promise visiting the Sienese archive is a very cool experience. They have created a little museum inside of the archive to display the city's rich history. It is a quick but very interesting visit.
5) Refuel with Panforte. Like most regions in Italy, Siena has a couple of interesting local food specialities. The most famous is probably panforte. This fruit and nut concoction dates all the way back to the 13th century. The word literally means strong bread and it was created as a durable (and spicy) snack for long journeys. It was even the snack of choice for many crusaders. Think of it as an early Lärabar. Today, all sorts of variations are sold in shops throughout Siena. 6) Learn about the Palio in the Campo. You will definitely want to visit the main square of Siena, which is famous for two reasons -- its odd shape (like a shell) and the historic horse race that still occurs there. The Palio is a crazy horse race that has been run since the 14th century. Many of the restaurants around the square display pictures of this unbelievable event.
7) Pick a Contrade. Siena is divided into 17 rival neighborhoods, or "contrade." While the competition today is peaceful, historically these divisions were fierce rivalries. Each contrade in Siena has their own church, baptismal font, festivals, and identity. They also have their own racehorse, and this is where the competitors for the yearly horse race come from.
8) Visit Catherine. In addition to a crazy horse race, Siena is also famous for a very important woman - Saint Catherine of Siena. Although she died in Rome, Catherine was born and lived much of her life in Siena. Today you can visit her home and her relics (a finger and head) inside the church of San Domenico. Catherine is remarkable for the political role that she played in the 14th century. This was obviously not a period when women had formal rights or political power. Catherine, however, managed to eschew marriage and played a critical role in reestablishing the papacy in Rome. She also famously didn't eat anything but the holy eucharist. Mystical women, like Catherine, are the subject of one of my all-time favorite books - Holy Feast, Holy Fast.
9) Stroll and shop Siena's picturesque streets. Siena isn't all history and no fun. The city has great shopping and cute streets, which are perfect for window (and non-window) shopping.
10) Sip some bubbles (or coffee) in the Campo. After a long day of exploring and sightseeing, Siena's main square (or Campo) is the perfect spot to sit and admire the city's beauty, people watch, and enjoy a drink. You will pay extra for the location, but it's totally worth it!
Have you visited Siena? What are your must-do in Siena?
To really see, experience, and taste Tuscany you can't just visit Florence or Siena, you must venture into the countryside. There is nothing quite like the charming countryside of Tuscany. And one of the best ways to experience this charm is to visit or stay in an "agriturismo."
Agriturismi dot the countryside surrounding Siena and Florence. They are typically small agricultural farms that grow grapes, olives, and/or other agricultural products. Most of these estates produce limited runs of their own wine and olive oil, which you can taste or purchase. Some are small B&Bs while others are larger luxurious estates with amazing amenities for a relaxing weekend away.
You can't go wrong with any agriturismo in Tuscany. All are small operations that focus on producing quality local and traditional foodstuffs, and since they are farm-to-table (and many of them are also organic), the meals (and wine) are amazing!
I have been fortunate to stay in several agriturismi over the course of my years in Italy. Tentuta San Vito is an estate that I have been visiting with students for more than 6 years. Located just over a half-hour outside of Florence, it is perfect for a quick afternoon trip. We take students to learn about their organic wine and olive oil production. After touring the estate and cellars, students get to sample several of San Vito's unique wines (the Madiere Tuscan red is my favorite) while eating a homemade farm-to-table meal overlooking acres of vineyards. As you can see from the photos the estate is stunning and so very Tuscan.
For the occasion I wore this fluid bell-sleeve dress. The weather was perfect -- a slight breeze with just a hint of spring chill left in the air. I loved the way the wind would catch the lightweight fabric of this dress. It is so hard to find comfortable and easy to wear dresses that are still flattering, so when I do, I scoop them up. I'm so happy I grabbed this one on sale just before I left and I am even happier with how it captured the feeling of San Vito's gorgeous estate for what will likely be our last taste of spring.
I have never been much of a wine snob. I didn’t buy into the idea that expensive wine equalled better wine. I simply drank what I liked. Well, thanks to Podere Il Carnasciale (an amazing boutique winery in the Tuscan countryside) I am now a complete wine snob! Last week I had the pleasure of tasting the most incredible wine I have ever had. I am not sure how I am going to go back to the cheap stuff!
But let’s back up for a minute. Last week, a friend of mine who lives in the countryside invited me to go grape picking (which has always been a bucket list item for me) at his friend’s winery. I had no idea he was taking me to the “haute couture” of wineries.
We arrived at Carnasciale and were immediately welcomed by members of this family-run operation -- the fabulous and stunning matriarch Bettina, her worldly son Moritz, and their spirited enologist and winemaker Peter. They showed us around the estate and explained exactly how their incredible wines are crafted. I now understand exactly why some wines are pricey, you wouldn’t believe the care and attention to detail that goes into producing this wine -- the grapes are completely harvest by hand and carefully selected, no chemicals are used, and the grapes are methodically processed and fermented.
Before heading into the cellar, they let us help with the harvest. We learned how to pick and carefully inspect each bunch. The rule of thumb is, “what you would not put into your mouth, does not go into the wine.” Even the grapes are special. The particular variety, or biotype, of grape grown at Carnasciale was discovered (or rather rediscovered) in an abandoned vineyard near Padua in the late 1960’s. No where else in Italy is this grape grown and used in winemaking; it is truly unique!
After getting our hands dirty with the harvest, we headed into the cellar to taste the wine! Obviously this was my favorite part and Peter was more than willing to let us try it all! At Carnasciale, the grapes are fermented separately according to the plot of land from where they were grown and harvested. I have always heard people talk about how the composition of various minerals in the soil effected the flavors of the wine, but this was the first time I was actually able to compare and taste the difference. The exact same grapes, fermented through the exact same process, all tasted different because of their varying soils. If you ever want to sound fancy, you can use the technical term “terroir.”
Carnasciale produces only two wines - “Il Caberlot” and “Carnasciale.” Il Caberlot is their signature wine and the Carnasciale is considered a second wine (from the barrels that didn’t make the cut for the Caberlot, but that are still delicious and thus bottled second). Not only does this incredible and unique wine take some time to age, but it is also incredibly rare -- Carnasciale only produces about 3,000 hand-numbered bottles of Il Caberlot each year and is only sold in 27 countries (we sampled the barrels from 2014, which will be ready for the market in 2018).
Visiting Podere Carnasciale and partaking in their harvest was truly a once in a lifetime experience, as was, sadly, drinking this amazing wine (for me at least). I learned so much about the process and science of winemaking and I have a new appreciation for quality wines.
People often ask me, “what is the best way to see and experience Tuscany?” There are lots of ways to experience this gorgeous region around Florence. You can take day trips from Florence and Siena (the regions two important centers) by car, vespa, and even horse to explore the countryside. You can do a wine tour and visit some of the amazing vineyards, or you can road trip through the countryside from hill town to stunning hill town. But if you truly want to experience the charm and culture of the Tuscan countryside, then you need to stay at a place like the Tenuta Lupinari.
Tenuta Lupinari is a luxury agritourismo in the heart of Tuscany (centrally located between Siena and Florence). The estate includes a historic castle, B&B style apartments for guests, relaxing swimming pool, and vineyards and olive groves from which the estate produces there own wine and olive oil. There is also an excellent restaurant where their chef, Angela, prepares traditional Tuscan delights.
Staying in Tuscany is a much different experience than visiting for a day. I was lucky enough to stay a couple nights at the gorgeous Tenuta Lupinari for the Kaleidotour I took part in earlier this month. It is so quiet and peaceful compared to the craziness of Florence. I loved getting up early and strolling through the vineyards and olive trees and relaxing by the pool in the afternoons. Not only are the grounds of the estate stunningly beautiful and well-kept, it is also a family owned and run operation. And they really do treat you like family!
The best part about the estate is that, thanks to it’s central location, you can easily visit all of the major cities of Tuscany (Florence, Siena, Montepulciano, Monteriggioni, etc.). So you don’t have to choose between city or country life, you can have the best of both worlds! If you are planning a holiday in Italy and want to experience the charm of Tuscany, definitely bookmark the Tenuta Lupinari!
Have you ever heard of the term “bespoke travel?” I have seen this phrase popping up more and more recently. The term bespoke was originally used in tailoring and denoted when an article of clothing was custom-made to fit an individual. So, for example, Jennifer of Suite makes bespoke dresses. But I was curious how and why this term has recently been invoked to describe travel. Well, this past weekend I got to experience one such tour firsthand, the Italian-eye’s Kaleidotour. Bespoke travel did not disappoint.
The tour took place in and around two gorgeous villas in the Tuscan Countryside. This particular tour was custom tailored for individuals who appreciate photography and creative activities, and who value elegant settings and artistic attention to detail.
The tour began with a photo-walk around the Villa Gaeta and an amazing picnic brunch, which included, my favorite, prosciutto, pear, and lavender sandwiches. Following the brunch there was time to relax poolside at the stunning Tenuta Lupinari before the afternoon flower crown workshop began. After learning how to create gorgeous floral headpieces, we donned our masterpieces while sipping rosé on the veranda of a nineteenth-century castle (part of the Lupinari estate). That evening, we were treated to an amazing four-course meal and lots of delicious local wine.
The second day of the tour began with a creative calligraphy workshop and black and white themed brunch. We spent our afternoon frolicking through the vineyards and exploring all of the gorgeous old buildings on the Lupinari estate. So. Many. Photo-ops. And since the tour was designed for creative individuals and Instagram lovers, there was no shortage of enthusiastic photographers (just check out the hashtag #Kaleidotour on Instagram). The weekend ended with another amazing meal at the estate, but more on the incredible Tenuta Lupinari later this week.
Having now experienced it, I can say I really loved this travel concept – it focuses on creating unique and highly personalized experiences that center on cultural immersion and learning. Some people would describe bespoke travel as more “authentic,” but I would simply say that it is different in a very good way (you can read why I dislike the notion of authentic travel here). Bespoke travel, like the Kaleidotour, shouldn’t replace all approaches to travel (i.e. group tours or seeing the major attractions). Instead, tours like the Kaleidotour (which they also have in London btw) are an excellent edition to your travel plans, giving you a different taste of and more personalized interaction with the places and cultures you visit. Also, your Instagram will thank you!
Click here for more information on Italian-Eye, the company behind the Kaleidotour!
