10 Things You Must Do in Siena

Siena is such an incredible city. Not only is it surrounded by some of Tuscany's most beautiful countryside, it retains its medieval look and feel. Visiting Siena is like stepping back in time. The city is well worth a day trip and easily reach via bus from Florence. So I have rounded up my 10 must-do things in Siena.

1) Marvel at the marble-striped duomo.
I think Siena wins for my favorite cathedral in Italy (Milan is a close second). It's facade is a gorgeous array of pink, green, and black marble. Siena actually built their impressive cathedral before Florence's giant dome, but not to be outdone by their rival Florence, Siena immediately started a massive expansion. This new expansion would have dwarfed the churches of Tuscany, but sadly, the Black Death arrive shortly after construction began. Only one wall of the new nave was erected, which brings me to number two...

2) Climb the unfinished wall of the church for the perfect panoramic of Siena.
Although unfinished, today Siena's unrealized cathedral houses the duomo museum. But the best part of this awkward wall is that you can climb it. From the top you can see the perfect view of Siena's famous Campo (main town square, pictured above).

3) See the Piccolomini Library.
Inside Siena's massive cathedral, in a small room on the lefthand side of the nave, is the Piccolomini Library. In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful cycle of Renaissance-style frescos in the world. The library was built by Siena's most powerful family, the Piccolomini (the family produced two popes). The library was intended to hold the manuscript collection of Pope Pius III (then just the "nephew" of Pope Pius II). The gorgeous and colorful fresco cycle was painted by Pinturrichio and his assistants, which included a young Raphael.

4) Visit the city's archive.
I know I am very partial to archives, but I promise visiting the Sienese archive is a very cool experience. They have created a little museum inside of the archive to display the city's rich history. It is a quick but very interesting visit.

5) Refuel with Panforte.
Like most regions in Italy, Siena has a couple of interesting local food specialities. The most famous is probably panforte. This fruit and nut concoction dates all the way back to the 13th century. The word literally means strong bread and it was created as a durable (and spicy) snack for long journeys. It was even the snack of choice for many crusaders. Think of it as an early Lärabar. Today, all sorts of variations are sold in shops throughout Siena.

6) Learn about the Palio in the Campo.
You will definitely want to visit the main square of Siena, which is famous for two reasons -- its odd shape (like a shell) and the historic horse race that still occurs there. The Palio is a crazy horse race that has been run since the 14th century. Many of the restaurants around the square display pictures of this unbelievable event.

7) Pick a Contrade.
Siena is divided into 17 rival neighborhoods, or "contrade." While the competition today is peaceful, historically these divisions were fierce rivalries. Each contrade in Siena has their own church, baptismal font, festivals, and identity. They also have their own racehorse, and this is where the competitors for the yearly horse race come from.

8) Visit Catherine.
In addition to a crazy horse race, Siena is also famous for a very important woman - Saint Catherine of Siena. Although she died in Rome, Catherine was born and lived much of her life in Siena. Today you can visit her home and her relics (a finger and head) inside the church of San Domenico. Catherine is remarkable for the political role that she played in the 14th century. This was obviously not a period when women had formal rights or political power. Catherine, however, managed to eschew marriage and played a critical role in reestablishing the papacy in Rome. She also famously didn't eat anything but the holy eucharist. Mystical women, like Catherine, are the subject of one of my all-time favorite books - Holy Feast, Holy Fast.

9) Stroll and shop Siena's picturesque streets.
Siena isn't all history and no fun. The city has great shopping and cute streets, which are perfect for window (and non-window) shopping.

10) Sip some bubbles (or coffee) in the Campo.
After a long day of exploring and sightseeing, Siena's main square (or Campo) is the perfect spot to sit and admire the city's beauty, people watch, and enjoy a drink. You will pay extra for the location, but it's totally worth it!


Have you visited Siena? What are your must-do in Siena?

Buying Leather in Florence

If you have ever strolled through the street markets of Florence then you have experienced the onslaught of catcalls, promises of huge discounts, and desperate attempts to grab your attention in order to sell you a leather handbag or jacket. Don’t let the charm, compliments, and fake smiles fool you, leather is big business in Florence and it has been for centuries.

While many want to indulge in some “Florentine quality” leather that was “made in Italy,” the process of actually purchasing something can be overwhelming and intimidating. Between the ridiculous discounts offered and aggressive workers who will say absolutely anything to make a sale, you’re left wondering how you could possibly walk away with a quality piece at a decent price.

Well, have no fear. I sat down with a friend of mine in Florence who works in the leather business for a very candid interview (he didn’t shy away from any of my tough questions). From this interview I have compiled everything you need to know when purchasing leather in Florence.

So here we go…

1) There is no mom and pop
Since leather is such a lucrative trade, it has evolved into a massive business enterprise. Most leather stores own a stand or cart, shop, and boutique. All are working together to get your business. It is also not uncommon for one investor to own shares in multiple leather shops. In addition to this, there are not that many tanneries or factories in Tuscany/Italy to begin with, so most of the jackets are coming from same suppliers.

2) Educate yourself
There is a difference between the following terminologies thrown around when buying leather:

“Real Leather” – Real leather is an empty promise and doesn’t indicate quality, just that some animal skin was tanned and used in the creation of the bag or jacket. Obviously, you want real leather, but you can get that anywhere. This is not enough of a promise; you want more, otherwise you might as well go into a chain retail store. A lot of this "real leather" actually comes from China or other places in North Africa/the Middle East. If you want high-quality leather, you should look for items made from calf or lambskin.

“Made in Italy” – You want your leather to be real and made in Italy, but this too can be misleading. In order to qualify as “made in Italy,” 33% of the item must be produced or manufactured in Italy. That’s it. So that means the leather could come from Morocco or Turkey and then be manufactured in Italy.

“Italian Quality” – Italian (or Tuscan) quality is really what you are looking for in addition to the first two. Italian quality means that the leather was treated and dyed according to traditional (non chemical) Italian techniques. Bottom line, the type of skin used and the tannery process determines the quality of a leather jacket.

Here are some tips for spotting Italian quality:
You should be able to see the texture of the animal skin.
If the leather is real, it cannot be perfect or free of imperfections.
The texture of the leather should feel soft and buttery to the touch.
The color will be more muted and natural, not fire engine red.
No leather is fire and waterproof. Do not fall for this promise.

3) Have realistic expectations
Like anything, you get what you pay for. A quality short leather jacket in Florence is going to cost between 200 and 350 euros, anything less simply cannot be Italian quality. If a shop offers you 50% or 70% off, they have already marked up their prices to offer such deals. Leather sells well year-round in Florence, so there is no liquidation or sale season. If a deal is too good to be true, it probably is. When in doubt, it is best to find a salesperson you trust. Just remember they are there to sell and will likely do anything to convince you to buy. If you want to visit my friend (who I obviously trust), you can find Aria at the David leather shop on Via Por Santa Maria, 56/red.

4) Haggle
You absolutely can and should haggle on the price of leather goods. A good haggler will shock the salesperson with a very low opening offer to see their reaction. Also, don’t be afraid to walk away. There are plenty of shops and you should definitely shop around (ask for a business card in case you decide to return). Finally, many of the carts/stalls (and even boutiques) hide their inventory to create the appearance that there are only a couple or your favorite items. Don’t fall for this and don’t be afraid to ask for a new item from the back when you purchase.

One final note if your traveling with an agency or cruise ship, many of these guides bring you to specific shops because they get a commission from your purchases. Not that this is inherently a bad thing, just something to be aware of when you’re shopping. Don’t be afraid to venture elsewhere.


Bottom line - Don't be intimidated. Leather makes a wonderful souvenir, just educate yourself so you buy quality and every time you wear it, it will remind you of beautiful Florence.

Happy leather shopping!

How to Plan a Trip Abroad

images clockwise from top left: Château de Chenonceau via // Chateau Villandry via // Château de Chambord via // lavender fields in Provence via and via // google map (my own, I will share when it is comeplete!)

I have never been one to fly by the seat of my pants when traveling. I am a planner... and I love it. I honestly don't know how people take trips abroad without planning. Sure it sounds carefree and spontaneous, but the reality is that most of what you want to do/see will likely be sold out or unavailable (particularly if you are traveling during spring break and the summer).

Emily and I are currently in the middle of planning an exciting trip to the Loire Valley and Provence. Even though our trip is almost three months away we struggled to find a good hotel in Avignon. Everything was already sold out! Honestly, we should have started planning sooner, but it was a bit of a last-minute decision. Fortunately, we found a fantastic alternative, but it just reminded my how important it is to plan and research for a trip abroad. If you are going to spend all of that money and time to travel across the ocean, you need to make sure you can see, do, and visit everything you want to!

So how do I research for a big trip abroad? I love researching so I get really into this part of traveling. Over the years, I have perfected something of a process:

STEP 1 (1 year to 6 months out)
Begin by deciding where you want to go and what you want to see. You want to figure out the best times to travel to that location in terms of weather and tourist seasons (I hate going to places in high season, but in many cases it's unavoidable). If you are going somewhere during high-season, the earlier you start planning the better your results.

STEP 2 (6 to 3 months out)
It is great to dream about where you want to go, but it's important you take care of budgeting and entry requirements before you get too far into planning and purchasing. Obviously your budget will determine what you can do, so you want to set that early to avoid over spending. And make sure you understand what currency the country you are traveling to uses and the conversion rate.

You also want to check on your passport (do you have one, is it up to date?) and the country (or countries) you are traveling to entry requirements. In many cases your passport needs six months of passport validity, meaning your passport should be valid for more than six months before you would be allowed to enter a foreign destination. Americans are spoiled and rarely need Visas, but it never hurts to check. Turkey requires you to apply for your visa online and print it out. If you show up without it, you aren't getting in!

STEP 3 (6 to 3 months out)
Once I have decided where I want to go and I have checked travel guidelines and set my budget, I focus on transportation and lodging. Obviously it is important you figure out how your going to get from A to B and where you are going to stay. For some trips this is more complicated than for others. For example, if you want to "get off the beaten track" or explore smaller cities you will have to research trains, buses, and/or car rentals. Without my methodical research, I would have not realized that getting from Italy to Avignon is actually difficult and the easiest way is to fly to Paris (from Florence) and then take the high speed train to Avignon. It seems a bit out of the way, but it's the best option.

Begin by selecting dates and then making sure that a flight (or flights/transport) and lodging are available for those dates. Don't book one without checking the other. Emily and I actually had to change our travel dates because the week we originally wanted to fly didn't have a lot of accommodation options, so we had to adjust. I like to purchase all of these major items -- flight, hotel, and inter-city transport (if applicable) -- together to avoid issues. It is worth noting that many European rail lines do not offer tickets online or for purchase more than 90 days out. Don't stress too much over train tickets. Trains, since cars can be added, tend to sell out less. I wouldn't wait until the day of, but a couple weeks (and in some cases days) out is fine. And don't forget to research airport transport. In many European cities the major international airport is not located near the city center.

Bonus tip - I love booking.com because they offer free cancellation for many of their bookings. So you can lock something in and are still able to alter your reservation or cancel it entirely for several weeks.

STEP 4 (3 months to 1 month out)
Now that you have planned and purchased your airline tickets and hotel, and know how you're going to get around once you arrive, it's time to start filling out your itinerary with activities and excursions. The photographer in my loves to start with Pinterest to see what gorgeous locations are associated with my destination (obviously I am going to need all of the lavender pictures in Provence). Again, you might think that you want to be flexible and leave your schedule open, but I promise if you're going to a major European city in the summer this is not a good idea if you want to see or do certain things. Every summer in Italy I see tourists in Venice, Rome, and Florence spending their entire day waiting in ridiculous lines; lines that could easily be avoided with an online reservation. This just seems silly to me. But of course I don't travel to relax and sleep in, so my advice may not be for everyone.

I book as many things in advance as I can. I also like to leave one free morning or afternoon per location/city for the unexpected -- things I didn't know I wanted to do in advance, or ran out of time to see.

STEP 5 (4 to 2 weeks out)
In the weeks leading up to my departure, I like to create a file with all of my booking references and important information. I save this as a pdf on my computer and on my phone so I can access it where ever I am (and with or without data/wifi). I also like to create a custom Google map and save it to my map ap. That way I have a visual itinerary in addition to my printed itinerary, which yes I print and bring. It is also helpful if you want to plan a walking tour or road trip (don't worry, I will be sharing my Provence road trip when it's done).


I could go on and I am sure there are plenty of things I missed, especially when it comes to pre-trip prep, but hopefully this gives you a good outline on how to start planning. I have many more travel tips here. And please contribute your tips below!

I promise the more you plan the smoother your trip will go! And if you hate planning, consider small group, guided travel, or a study abroad program. And don't think study abroad is limited to collage-age students, we have non-traditional (i.e. mature) students go every year and have an amazing time. Some universities even offer group alumni trips.

What to Pack if You're Traveling or Studying Abroad This Summer

It's officially 32 days until I depart for Italy! I will be spending my usual 3 months abroad to teach and research in Florence. I will also be doing a little bit of personal travel (stay tuned for more on that). I met with this summer's students a couple weeks ago and, as expected, most of their questions and emails have centered around packing. 

Packing for a long trip abroad is difficult. Over the years, I think I have done a pretty good job of mastering this skill. I am able to pack for the entire summer abroad in one large suitcase, one carry on, and one tote. As I discussed last week, the key to efficient and stress-free packing is starting early.

If you've been reading here for a while, this advice will feel very familiar (Feel free to skip down to the example packing list below). But it is worth repeating, because it works! 

The following are my tried-and-true tips for packing:

1) Take the number of days you are traveling and divide in half (if you are traveling for more than 3 months, this will need to be adjusted). This is the number of outfits you should try and pack. So for my summer abroad I will pack 40 - 45 outfits.

2) Select items that you can mix and match. This will double your wardrobe for the trip. I suggest selecting one color scheme to ensure everything matches. You can see my example below.

3) For warm summer months, focus on natural fabrics that breathe.

4) Bring a variety of tops and bottoms of varying lengths and weights so you are prepared for all weather conditions.

5) Pack only comfortable and functional shoes.

6) Pack few toiletries, you can buy the basics when you arrive (more suitcase weight saving tips here).

7) Use packing cubes and compression bags to save space and stay organized.

You can read even more of my summer packing tips here.

Now on to the fun part. Here is an example of exactly what to pack. This is what I would pack for a month abroad (mid-May to mid-June) in Italy. This example would also work for most of Europe, you just sub a couple more layers for cooler evenings (there are few cool evenings in southern Europe in the summer lol). And obviously the later in the summer you go, the warmer the weather you need to pack for.

sleeveless top // stripe tee // solid tee // long sleeve tee // dressy top (seen here) // button up // midi skirt // stripe skirt (seen here) // floral skirt // light-weight trench (a travel essential) // denim jacket // jeans (I suggest light and stretchy) // knit dress // floral dress // stripe dress // dressier dress // tunic that doubles as a cover up // stripe shorts // chambray shorts // scarf // cross body // tote // bathing suit // hat // travel ballet flats // sandals // sneakers // espadrilles

From this list, I can make 36 unique outfits. Don't believe me? Check it out.

I hope this helps ease your packing anxiety. And please share if you're headed somewhere fabulous this summer. I promise to share my plans soon!

SHOP THE POST:

When to Start Packing for a Trip Abroad

striped espadrilles // gingham bag // blue, white, and coral skirt // hat // travel ballet flats // striped skirt // lace romper // gingham cover up // floral dress (old) // sunnies // carry on luggage

Why is packing so stressful? I actually love the challenge, but the number one question I get asked from students and readers is "what should I pack for my summer/semester/vacation abroad?" This question is as impossible to answer as my other least favorite question, "how much should I budget?" Both answers depend entirely on the individual. I can, however, give this piece of advice - pack half of what you think you need and double your spending money!

But seriously, I get it. Packing for a trip abroad is difficult, especially if you've never been abroad and don't know exactly what to expect culturally or weather-wise. My experience speaks mostly to Italy and Europe, but you could certainly follow this advice for other destinations.


2 Months Prior to Departure:
Research your destination's average weather conditions. Is it rainy? Hot? Cold? You also want to check for cultural expectations/restrictions regarding clothing. For example, to visit churches in Italy you need to cover your shoulders and, in many cases, skirts need to hit the knee (no shorts!).


1 Month Prior to Departure:
Lay out the clothing you want to pack. This will help you identify items you might be missing. Compare your laid-out wardrobe to your itinerary and make sure the items you have selected are functional for your trip. You also want to focus on items that you can mix and match. Finally, once you have a good idea of the articles of clothing you want to bring (or need to get), start selecting shoes. Make sure they are comfortable and functional, not just stylish. Your goal is to identify a limited number of shoes that you have (or need to purchase) that will go with every thing you pack (the same is true for purses) and work for every activity on your itinerary.

If you really want to be an expert packer, I suggest taking the time to photograph each item and/or outfit. That way you can see exactly how you can mix and match and how many outfits you can make from what you have packed. It also helps you identity less-functional or versatile items.

By doing this a month before you depart, you have enough time to pick up any articles of clothing or shoes you might need (and the necessary time to break those shoes in!).


2 Weeks Prior to Departure:
I like to do a dry run pack about 2 weeks prior to departure. This ensures that everything you want to bring will fit in your luggage and make sure your bag isn't over weight (here are my tricks for dropping your bag's weight). By doing this two weeks before, you have the time to rethink or reduce the number of items you've packed if need be. Trust me, this is not something you want to stress over the night before departure. I also recommend investing in some packing cubes, which you can read more about here.


1 Week Prior to Departure:
Use your last week before you depart to make sure everything you are packing is washed and ready to go. I like to slowly add everything to my bag that week, rather than marathon it the night before. It is also a good idea to make a list of everything you want to pack and cross off each item as you go (you can read my carry-on packing list here and an example of how I pack my carry on here). Leave this list at home in case anything happens to your bag and you need a record of everything you packed for your insurance company or airline. You also want to check the weather one last time to ensure you are prepared.

Click here for an example of a summer in Europe packing capsule.

Buon viaggio! And please leave any questions or tips below if you have them.

SHOP MY FAVORITE PACKING ACCESSORIES

History in High Heel’s Paris Map

Outside of Italy, Paris will always be my favorite city. I love visiting Paris, and I go whenever I can. I was fortunate enough to visit three times last year, and with each trip I fell even more in love with the city. My last trip in November was especially meaningful, as it was just six days after the terrorist attacks. But Parisians are resilient, and we joined them in their refusal to be terrorized.

Since returning home, I have finally been able to put together a (somewhat) comprehensive custom Google map of Paris. I love creating custom Google maps, it is the best way to share information on a particular place. The best part is that you can save the map and reference it while traveling. I am particularly proud of my efforts to map as many gorgeous Parisian doors as I could, and tracking down some amazing (but often kept secret) photo spots.

Click here to see my map of Paris. Bookmark/save this link to access the map while traveling.

And here is a great blog post that walks you through creating, accessing, and saving custom google maps.

Feel free to comment with suggestions to add to the map, or things I overlooked.


More of my posts from Paris:
Six Things to do on a Rainy Day in Paris
Postcards from Paris
A Stroll Through Montmartre
Lots of Dots in Paris
Where to Find the Best Parisian Doors
Two Gardens in Paris

30 Tips for Studying/Living Abroad

1) Bring Earplugs
Student travel equals budget travel, which means you will have lots of people sharing rooms (hotels, dorms, and hostels) and enduring long bus rides. Tuck a couple pairs of disposable earplugs into your bag so that no matter what sleeping situation you find yourself in, you will be ready.

2) Pack Less, Budget More
Most students over pack and under budget. You won't need as much clothing as you think you do and you will definitely need more money. I have never heard a student say, "I budgeted too much, I have so much money." It is almost always the reverse.

3) Photocopy Important Documents
You can also snap a pic on your phone. Having copies tucked safely in your apartment and back home will make your life so much easier if any of your important documents (passport, ID, credit card, etc.) are stolen or misplaced.

4) Buy a SIM Card Abroad
This is the cheapest and easiest way (in Europe for sure), you can read more about using your cell phone abroad here.

5) Learn the Language
Or at least attempt to -- "hello," "thank you," and "please" go along way in any language and country.

6) Get in Shape
Traveling requires a lot of walking and luggage hauling. You will enjoy the experience more and your feet will hurt a lot less if you aren't completely out of shape. You don't need to train for a marathon, but putting in the effort to hit the gym or walk more before departure will go a long way.

7) Travel on Weekends
Make the most of your time abroad by traveling on the weekends. If you're in Europe you can basically see a new country every weekend. If you're in Florence, I highly recommend traveling with my friends at Florence For Fun.

8) Bring a Universal Power Adaptor
I like the universal ones, instead of country-specific, because if you do travel on weekends you are prepared.

9) Buy Your Straightener and/or Blow Dryer When You Arrive
Even when you use a voltage converter and adaptor, these items never seem to work properly (unless they are dual voltage). Fortunately, these items are not very expensive and easy to find abroad and it will save space and weight in your suitcase (you can read more of my tips for space and weight saving here).

10) Bring Comfortable Shoes

11) Take Lots of Pictures

12) Be Open to Bus Travel
As someone who gets car sick, I was not excited about the idea of a 10-hour bus ride to Budapest. But I bought some motion sickness pills and settled in with a pillow and a blanket and it wasn't terrible. It is one of the cheapest ways to travel and once I arrived in Budapest, it quickly became worth it.

13) Pack For All Weather Scenarios
This is important especially if you're planning on traveling. It may be mild in Florence in the fall, but you might want to ski one weekend in Switzerland or lay on the beach in Santorini.

14) Buy Travel Insurance
Again, especially true if you want to travel. And even more important if you are flying discount airlines. You can find good plans online and customize them to your travel needs.

15) Invest in a Good Camera and Large Memory Card
You will take a ton of pictures and they really are the best souvenirs.

16) Bring Something Sentimental
Bring something that reminds you of home for those days where you are tired, grumpy, and missing home.

17) Be Adventurous
Be adventurous in all things -- what you eat, where you travel, and what you do! Some of my most amazing experiences were when I put my fear aside and just went for it.

18) Stay Hydrated
This might seem like a non brainer, but when you're busy traveling and tap water is not free like it is back home, you often forget. Make an effort to drink lots of water, even if it's more expensive than you think it should be.

19) Set Goals/Make a Bucket List
Setting goals and making a bucket list will keep you motivated when your tired. Traveling every weekend and living in a foreign country can be exhausting, but it is so worth it.

20) Explore Alone
While traveling with friends and other students is fun, exploring on your own and learning how to navigate and interact by yourself in a foreign place is very important.

21) Pack Lots of Ziplock Bags
There are just so useful when you travel, trust me!

22) Plan, Plan, Plan!
Traveling is so much easing and cheaper when it is well planned. Take the time to research where you are going and what you want to do and book ahead whenever possible.

23) Sleep When You're Dead (Not Traveling)
Don't go into a semester abroad expecting to have lots of time to relax or that you will come home well rested. It is a once in a lifetime experience, which means it is completely worth all of the early mornings, late nights, and long travel days.

24) Learn How to Read a Map
Your cell phone may not always work, so it is nice to be able to fall back on an old-school map. It will also give you a better sense of the city, which will help you navigate.

25) Buy Toiletries When You Arrive
This saves space and weight when it comes to packing. You can read all of my space and weight saving tips here.

26) Dress the Part

27) Keep a Journal or Blog
It is a great way to keep track of all of your adventures and it lets your friends and family follow along.

28) Conquer Public Transportation

29) Get a Travel Rewards Credit Card
Most travel cards minimize exchange fees and international purchase fees, plus you can earn miles or points for your next adventure.

30) Get an Extra Battery for Your Phone
Between Google translating, mapping your location, and taking a million photos, you phone battery will betray you. I absolutely love my Mophie case. It has been a life saver on numerous occasions.

Six Things to do on a Rainy Day in Paris

In a perfect world, we would only travel when the weather was perfect. But as we know, that just isn't going to happen. Traveling during the summer months in Europe will typically ensure better weather, but that sunshine also comes with more crowds and higher prices. If you want to travel off season, which I highly recommend, you don't have to let weather ruin your good time. As Britt and I discovered on our trip to Paris last month, there are lots of things to do on rainy days in Paris!

Here are six fun things you can do in Paris on a rainy (or supper cold) day:

Visit the Catacombs
The catacombs of Paris are equally creepy and cool. Unlike the catacombs on Rome, they contain lots and lots of human bones (of about 6 million people). The catacombs were started in the 18th century to solve two of Paris's problems - over flowing cemeteries and frequent cave-ins. The millions of bones placed in networks of old mines soon became a curiosity for travelers and have remained so today. The arrangement of the bones is also striking, some might even say they are artistic and beautiful. It is definitely a unique (and dry) experience.

Go on a Sewer Tour
Believe it or not, Paris's sewers have a long and fascinating history. The city constructed its first sewer in the 14th century but it wasn't until Napoleon III that the modern day sewer system was born. Like the metro, Paris pioneered the idea of underground waste and water management. It might be a smelly tour, but it is definitely fascinating to explore some of the early parts of Paris's still-functioning historic sewer (there is also a museum).

Explore the Historic Covered Galleries
Modern day travelers aren't the only ones annoyed by Paris's temperamental weather. Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, enclosing small shopping streets under glass roofs became a popular means to weather-proof a day spent shopping, dining, or sneaking away for something a bit more sinister. Today these historic covered arcades are hidden architectural gems full of shops, antique stores, book stores, and cafes. There are quite a few left in the city, you just have to know where to look! Most are on the right bank and relatively clustered together, making it easy to visit many of them in the same day. There is a great guide here.

Get a Museum Pass
Paris has some of the greatest museums in the world, which are perfect for bad-weather days. Both the Louvre and the d'Orsay have great restaurants, cafes, and wifi. There is even a shopping mall underground connect to the Louvre. If you can, try to plan your museum visits for the days with the worst weather, and to save money and time, you can purchase a museum pass. And here is one of my best Paris tips: there is a tobacco shop in the underground shopping area of the Louvre that sells tickets and museum cards and, unlike the main entrances, they rarely have a line!

Make New Friends at the Cat Cafe

Britt and I loved the cat cafe! Such a wonderful idea. Fill a cafe with adorable rescue cats and let people love them and play with them. It really is a win-win. Take my word for it, cake and coffee taste even better with sweet kitty cuddles. Just make sure you book ahead, reservations are required! You can check out their website here.

Go Shopping
When all else fails you can indulge in one of Paris's greatest pastimes - fashion! I think it goes without saying that the city has amazing shopping. The big department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps are perfect for rainy days (again they have it all, coffee, food, and wifi lol).


Remember, Paris is always a good idea, rain or shine!

The Best Purses for Travel

When it comes to packing for travel or studying abroad selecting the right shoes and purses is definitely the most challenging part. You want to pack as few as possible while ensuring you have what you need for all possible occasions. You're also trying to find bags and shoes that will look stylish but also be comfortable and practical. Like I said, challenging!

Before you select your perfect purse for travel you need to think about your travel plans and what you will want or need to have with you on a daily basis. I encourage people to carry as little as possible to avoid back pain or having an annoyingly-large bag to drag around. This amount, of course, is different for everyone. Some people can get away with just their cell phone, keys, and wallet, while others need a mini first aid kit, makeup, DSLR camera, and extra sweater (#guilty).

If you only need a small or medium size purse, I highly recommend a cross-body bag. A convertible cross-body that can be both a shoulder bag and cross-body, like this one, is ever better. Cross-body bags free your hands and are more comfortable for long days of sightseeing. If you're the type of person that likes to carry everything but the kitchen sink, you will want to skip the cross body and opt for a large, but lightweight, tote. For security reasons, make sure what ever you select zips completely.

In addition to size and shape, you also want to consider the bag's material. Nylon is great because it is lightweight and durable. I also like coated canvas and Saffiano leather because both are more resistant to scratches and staining. Finally, make sure you select a practical color or pattern that goes with what you have packed.

Here are some of my favorite purses for travel:

THE MINIMALIST
Avery Crossbody // Britton Crossbody // Dagne Dover Tiny Tote // Jet Set Crossbody // Metropolis Mini Crossbody

THE PICTURE LOVER
Mini Avery Tote // Nylon Small Devin // Saddle Crossbody // Stacy Drawstring Shoulder Bag // Flemming Convertible Bag

THE HOARDER
Dagne Dover 13" Tote // Large Le Piliage // Cedar Street Tote

Now, you might have noticed that there are two Dagne Dover bags listed in my favorite purses for travel. That's because they really are the perfect bags! The larger totes have compartments for everything to keep you organized and protect your electronics. This is a lifesaver at the airport. My Tiny Tote, however, is one of my favorites for sightseeing. This little guy has traveled to Budapest, Salzburg, Paris, Venice, London, and all over Italy! To celebrate my love of Dagne Dover totes, they are offering 20% off to History in High Heels readers from now until December 25th with code - HistoryinHighHeels20.


FOR THE STUDY ABROAD STUDENT:
If you are studying abroad you will need a couple different types of bags. First you will need an everyday school bag. This should be something you can easily carry your books and lap top in to and from class (remember class can be on the other side of the city). I suggest a backpack (but beware of theft) or something like the Longchamp Large Le Piliage (which is perfect because it folds up).

You will also want to pack a small and/or medium sized cross-body bag for excursions and travel. Speaking of travel, make sure you bring a weekender bag or small carry-on for weekend travel. Just make sure that your travel bag is small enough to comply with budget airline restrictions (or you will be forced to check it)!

One final tip - Invest in your travel purses and bags and avoid traveling with cheap or poorly made ones. There is nothing worse than having your bag's seam tear or strap rip in the middle of the airport or a foreign city.


I hope this helps you find your perfect travel purse!

Where to Find the Best Parisian Doors

It is no secret that I love the bright and colorful doors of Paris. And I am not the only one, just a couple weeks ago I stumbled across dozens of Parisian door pins on Pinterest as I was researching for this trip. Probably the most prolific pin or image of a Parisian door is this amazing set of pink doors.

Yet for all of my door stalking in Paris, I had never managed to find this particular door. Not one to give up, I spent hours one night studying and researching the image (I was definitely avoiding doing something productive). It was clearly number 64 and with enough internet sleuthing, I was able to identify one of the companies listed on the name plate. That plus the street number led me straight to the actual address - 64 Rue de Turenne.

Thanks to Google street view, I didn’t have to wait until I arrived in Paris, I could confirm the location right then and there. I was so sad when I realized these doors are actually blue! And on top of that, this is what they looked like when we strolled by them a couple days ago:

But that is ok, there are plenty of gorgeous and brightly colored doors in Paris! Many of theses doors, however, are hidden away on little side streets. So to help you find them, I made a map of all of my favorite doors! Of course, there are many more than what I have mapped, but this should get you started if you ever find yourself in Paris and want to admire these gorgeous gems. If you remember the location of your favorite Parisian door (or doors) please comment below with the address and I will add it to the map!

You can access the map here.

Happy door hunting!

A Colorful Tour of Notting Hill

coat // sweater // scarf (similar) // jeans // boots (purchased in Florence, similar here and here) // bag // sunnies (on sale!) // hat


After a long day of sightseeing in the historic center of London Saturday, Mike and I opted for a more relaxed stroll through one of London’s most beautiful neighborhoods, Notting Hill, on Sunday. With so many amazing things to do in London, I had never made it out to this part of town, but it has always been on my must-see list. It was so nice to finally have the time to explore this colorful neighborhood.

You can easily spend an entire day strolling through Notting Hill's peaceful residential streets, sipping cappuccinos in cute cafes, reading in one of the many gardens, antiquing on Portobello road, and indulging in some fine dining.

I am sure you have seen lots of pictures of the adorable and colorful houses of Notting Hill online. And it truly does not disappoint in person. Since the neighborhood is quite large, I tried to do some research online before I left. I was frustrated, however, to find lots of pictures of the pink, blue, and candy-colored houses I was hoping to see, but no one revealed where to actually find these colorful gems. I tried to do some Google street-view detective work, and I did end up locating some of the houses I had seen online, but I felt like I couldn't find a good guide or walking tour... So I made one!

Thanks to my new obsession with creating custom Google maps, I mapped out a delightful walking tour of Notting Hill that highlights, what are in my opinion, the cutest and most colorful streets (that I could find), in addition to my favorite (or highly recommended) cafes, restaurants, and gardens. You can view and download the map here. And don’t worry, I made sure that the location of every colorful photo pictured in this post was marked on the map. Enjoy!

Florence Guide: Palazzo Pitti

Click here for details on what I wore.


If I had to pick my favorite museum in Florence, it would be the Palazzo Pitti. Not only is it a grand Renaissance palace, it is often overlooked by tourist, which means it doesn’t have long lines and is rarely crowded. The Palazzo Pitti is almost always overshadowed by its more famous counterparts - the Uffizi,  Accademia (where the David is located), and the Palazzo Vecchio. But this isn’t because it’s less significant!

I am not really sure why it doesn’t receive the same recognition, since the museum boasts works by Artemisia Gentileschi, Botticelli, Caravaggio, Raphael (some of my all-time favorite Raphael portraits),  and Titian. On top of its impressive collection of art, the building was the royal residence of the Medici Grand Dukes, their successors the Lorrianes, and even Napoleon stayed there for a bit. Fun historical tidbit, the size and grandeur of the Palazzo Pitti and its formal gardens were one of the inspirations for Versailles.

Today the Palazzo Pitti is actually 6 museums plus the gorgeous (and massive) Boboli Gardens -- a modern art museum, a silver museum (and other precious objects), a porcelain museum, a historical costume museum, and a carriage museum. But the main collection of Renaissance and Baroque art, as well as the royal apartments, are in the Palatine Gallery (the largest of the Pitti’s museums).

Clearly, I enjoy this museum. So when my friend Anna mentioned that she had never been, I jumped at the chance to spend the day showing her around  (it’s important to know that she’s lived in Florence for fourteen years!). We started our day with cappuccini and fresh orange juice in the square in front of the palazzo. Fueled up and ready to go we conquered each of the museums, one by one. Even if you aren’t interested in silver or carriages, it’s fun to visit all of them and see the entirety of the building. I love walking through the very rooms that the princess I study once lived in.

After a marathon of art and architecture, we headed out into the gardens to enjoy what was a perfect fall day. But no day across the river in Florence (in the area called the Oltrano) is complete without dinner (and a bottle of red wine) at one of the delicious restaurants in Piazza Santo Spirito. It is hard to find a bad meal in this square, but we really like Trattoria Borgo Antico and Osteria Santo Spirito.

Have you visited the Palazzo Pitti?

11 Things You Must Do in Cappadocia

1) Relax in a Turkish Bath
I don’t think I need to explain this one. Turkish baths are famous for a reason, just do it!

2) Explore Ihlara Valley
Not only is the valley gorgeous, but it is filled with interesting cut rock cave-dwellings and old Byzantine churches.

3) See the Fairy Chimneys
Truly marvels of nature, these little geological wonders shouldn’t be missed!

4) Ride in a Hot Air Balloon at Sunrise
This is totally worth the early morning and steep price tag. Sailing high above Cappadocia’s out-of-this-world landscape is an incredible experience.

5) Scale the Uchisar Castle
Not only is the castle historically interesting, but its position on a hill overlooking the valley below offers great panoramic views (especially at sunset).

6) Explore an Underground City
I recommend Kaymakli, it has four levels that you can explore. Just be warned many of the passageways are very small and narrow.

7) See the Byzantine Churches of the Goreme Open Air Museum
This open air museum has lots to explore, but the rock-cut Byzantine churches are a must-see.

8) Watch 100 Hot Air Balloons Rise at Sunrise from Uchisar
In addition to riding in one, you should also see this amazing sight from below. I found the best vantage point was from the Uschisar hill (next to the Castle).

9) Walk the Silk Road and See a Caravanserai 
Walk in the footsteps of thousands of years of history. The ancient routes that connected Europe to Asia still exist in many places, as do the caravanserai (where trades would stop to rest, refuse, and trade).

10) Stay in a Cave Hotel
Staying in a traditional cave hotel is a must and I highly recommend Kale Konack.

11) Eat a Pottery Kebab and Drink Apple Tea
Pottery Kebabs are a local Cappadocian speciality (and the term kebab is used for all meat dishes). They slow-cook veggies and/or lamb in traditional clay pots. After simmering all day, the dish is sealed with bread dough and fired at a higher heat. To eat, they break open the clay pot and pour the deliciousness on to your fresh plate of rice. It’s amazing! And don’t forget to drink lots of apple tea.

You can read more about my adventures in Cappadocia here:
Postcards from Cappadocia Part 1
Postcards from Cappadocia Part 2

Creating Custom Google Maps

Obviously the idea that you can create your own custom Google map is not new. I’ve read several articles describing how to do it in the past, and always thought, “what a great idea.” Despite thinking I should do it, I never actually created one, which is surprising given how much I love to plan and research before I travel somewhere (especially somewhere new).

As I was researching where to find the best spots for blue dome pictures in Santorini, I quickly realized that these spots were actually quite hard to find. I finally found a photographer who gave a good description and the GPS coordinates. I knew I wanted to make sure I could access that info while in Santorini, and that’s when it dawned on me -- this was the perfect occasion to make my first custom Google map!

The process is super easy. You simple log into your Google account and go to maps. You create a new map, name it, and start adding by address, GPS coordinates, business name, street name, or by dropping a pin or line on the map. You can then automize the colors and pin icons (You can find more thorough, step-by-step instructions here). Before I departed for Santorini I added just handful of places to my map and then downloaded it on my phone (I just used the google maps app, but you can also download into other map apps). It was a lifesaver.

But the real value of the custom Google map came when I returned home and wanted to record and share my favorite places and best photo spots. I had several people who were traveling to Santorini or planning a trip in the future who wanted some recommendations. I realized that the easiest and most useful thing for them was for me to add everything to my Google map and then share it. That way they too could access it on their phones while traveling (remember having a working phone in Europe is cheaper and easier than you think).

So here it is, my Google map for Santorini, Greece that you can view and save - just click here!

I am hoping to make one for all of the places I visit, and, of course, I want to make one definitive one for Florence.


So what do you think? Is this a useful addition to the travel section of this blog?

Weekend in Venice

coat // dress // blouse (similar) // bow (similar) // tights // shoes // bag

I know I have been a bit tough on Venice in the past. I have even called it one of Italy’s most overrated destinations. It is not that I don’t think Venice is a must-see, or that it isn’t one of the most unique and enchanting places you will ever visit. It’s just that the city is incredibly crowded and touristy, overpriced, and it can be difficult to find a good meal. While I wouldn’t want to spend a week in Venice, it is perfect for a little weekend getaway, especially when your friend -- who lives just off the grand canal -- invites you!

Typically, I visit Venice with students, which means I do the same major sites -- the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Basilica, glass blowing demonstration, the Rialto Bridge, and the Accademia -- over and over again. Staying with my quasi-local friend, Sophia, however, meant that I could finally explore off the beaten path with someone who knew where to go and where to eat and drink. When Sophia asked me what I wanted to see or do, I said I just wanted to relax and wander. And wander we did, for more than 12 miles on Saturday!

We explored five of Venice’s seven neighborhoods -- Dorsoduro  San Polo, Santa Croce, San Marco, and Castello -- in between photo, cappuccino, and prosecco stops. Dorsoduro and Castello were my favorites and definitely the most residential and less-explored areas of the city. It was so nice to just amble through Venice with no real direction, and what a difference it makes having someone who knows the island so well showing you around and sharing interesting tidbits along the way!

Sunday we headed to Burano, which I will share photos of later this week (it is so cute, it deserves it’s own post). For now, I thought I would share some of Sophia’s recommendations:

Local squares perfect for sipping prosecco or coffee while people watching:
Campo San Barnaba
Via Giuseppe Garibaldi
Campo San Giacomo dall'Orio

Neighborhoods to explore:
Dorsoduro
Castello
Cannareggio

Lunch spots:
ai do gobbi - Calle del Forno, 3789
Antico Forno - Ruga Ravano, 973 (anticofornovenezia.com)

Dinner spots:
La Zucca - Santa Croce, 1762 (lazucca.it)
Muro Venezia Frari - Sestiere San Polo, 2604 (murovenezia.com)
Antiche Carampane - Sestiere San Polo, 1911